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How-To #2 ABCs of Staining Castings & Models Booklet Doctor Ben's Scale Consortium

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ï"Products Created Directly from the Creation of NMRA National Award Winning Dioramas by Richard E. (Ben) Bendever"... Both Doctor Ben's Weathering Stain Sets (#1077 & #1078) purchase as well as the Thomas A Yorke Practice Wall Kits (HO & O scale-pictured) are accompanied with our "How-To #2"...
Part Number: DBZ1002
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Doctor Ben's How-To #2

The ABCs of Staining Castings & Models

  Typically, there are three types of castings found in a kit: plaster, resin and metal. Since the manufacturing process of each of these castings is molding, all three casting types will have some sort of mold release that affects the staining/coloring process. Although the mold release used in plaster castings has been absorbed into the gypsum and cannot be removed, the mold release on resin and metal castings is best removed with vinegar and warm water. Only after the resin and metal castings have been cleaned and thoroughly dried, can the staining process begin.


Gypsum - The plaster (Hydrocal®, LabStone a/k/a Dental Stone, etc.) castings that you receive from a manufacturer are not all created equal. They range from the weakest and least expensive (referred to as Plaster of Paris) to the strongest and most expensive (varying grades of Labstone—mostly used by Dentists and Orthodontists for impressions and dental repair). Typically, if the castings are white in color they may be weaker, which is why these castings are usually much thicker. The white gypsum casting is made thicker so that it will be less likely to break, especially under extreme conditions such as being knocked over on the workbench or being thrown around by delivery personnel. Castings made of a stronger material do not need to be as thick. CLICK HERE to read the Rest of the How-To Booklet ...